On kinematics of very steep waves

On kinematics of very steep waves

Experiments on extremely steep deterministic waves generated in a large wave tank by focusing of a broadbanded wave train serve as a motivation for the theoretical analysis of the conditions leading to wave breaking. Particular attention is given to the crest of the steepest wave where both the horizontal velocity and the vertical acceleration attain their maxima. Analysis is carried out up to ...

Kinematics of steep bedrock permafrost

[1] The mechanisms that control climate-dependent rockfall from permafrost mountain slopes are currently poorly understood. In this study, we present the results of an extensive rock slope monitoring campaign at the Matterhorn (Switzerland) with a wireless sensor network. A negative dependency of cleft expansion relative to temperature was observed at all clefts for the dominant part of the yea...

Quasiplanar steep water waves.

A unique description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak three-dimensional effects are included as small corrections to exact two-dimensional equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter in this theory is not a surface slope, but it is the ratio of a typical wavelength to a large transversal scale along the sec...

Steep. Short-Crested Waves and Related Phenomena

Steep, short-crested waves, as well as a large variety of three-dimensional propagating wave patterns have been created in laboratory, utilizing a plunging half-cone. Monochromatic waves, over a range of frequencies and amplitudes through breaking and including soliton wave groups near resonance, have been observed and studied in a small wave flume. This monochromatic wavemaker creates complex ...

Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker